Experiencing the Best of Europe
Day 4: New Connections on the Rhine
“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” – Martin Buber
Best Moments
1. Herr Jung's sobering experiences
2. Thomas' enthusiasm and overly kind gestures with the ice wine
3. Piano music at the poster shop
4. Guide flicking off kids at Reinfels castle
5. Rhine river cruise with wine
6. Night strolls of Bacharach with friends
7. "Life is good" with white wine (dry, semi, and classic)
8. Making a wish in a fountain that Herr Jung said is proved to work
Daily Recap
*I ventured out early to see the quiet town and hike up to some of the ruins. What a beautiful place.
*We met early to begin our packed day. As we all circled around, we got to meet our local guide, Herr Jung. We started the tour off with a song to get us all in the spirit.
*He showed us around Bacharach, weaving us in and out of the half-timbered buildings. From there we winded up to the vineyards to see a sweeping view of Bacharach and the Rhine. Our final stop included a visit to an artist's shop. He played "What a Wonderful World" on the piano as some noticed tears swelling up in their eyes.
*Sad to leave our local tour, we hopped on the bus to go to St. Goar and the Rheinfels Castle. We braked for lunch. I took advantage of ordering some genuine German food. Luckily I was able to burn off my calories on the hike up to the castle.
*We finished the afternoon with a peaceful Rhine cruise.
Personal Connections
*Today was a big day with unforgettable people. If you've ever read Rick Steves' Postcards From Europe, then you know Herr Jung. There are several people that have left an impact on me throughout this trip, and Herr Jung is one of them. He is the type of person that lets you into his world right away. Like a grandpa, he shares his stories to us. He shares to teach and remind us of the times of the past. I'm sure he has given a similar speech for many, many years, but he speaks with the same gusto as if it is the first time he has shared his thoughts.
*Thomas is another very memorable character from this day. He joined our walk with Herr Jung. While hiking in the vineyards, he began to talk with me about how he has helped in the harvesting season. He then went on to discuss a time when they plucked the grapes for ice wine. I shared my love of ice wine in passing. Later that night he rejoined us and to my surprise, brought me an ice wine. I shared my treasure with my new friends later in the trip. Germans may be some of the nicest people I have ever met.
Information Station
Stub Hub
Herr Jung had so many wonderful and tragic stories to share about World War II. I keep wishing I would have made use of my audio recorder so I could go back and listen to his stories. He is a man that has seen a lot and done a lot for so many.
St. Goar is a charming town. We stopped there for lunch before hiking up to the Rheinefels castle. Hungry for the quitessential German food, a friend and I shared a plate of wurst, sauerkraut, and potatoes. It really is better in Germany.
Several places in this area are named after Loreley. Legend has it that she was a dangerous beauty. Here is a poem to share her story:
By Heinrich Heine
Translated by A.Z. Foreman
I know not if there is a reason
Why I am so sad at heart.
A legend of bygone ages
Haunts me and will not depart.
The air is cool under nightfall.
The calm Rhine courses its way.
The peak of the mountain is sparkling
With evening's final ray.
The fairest of maidens is sitting
Unwittingly wondrous up there,
Her golden jewels are shining,
She's combing her golden hair.
The comb she holds is golden,
She sings a song as well
Whose melody binds an enthralling
And overpowering spell.
In his little boat, the boatman
Is seized with a savage woe,
He'd rather look up at the mountain
Than down at the rocks below.
I think that the waves will devour
The boatman and boat as one;
And this by her song's sheer power
Fair Lorelei has done.
Having a guide for sights like the castle really brings a more complete view of a place. Who would have thought a little hole above you could potentially have been a dangerous place to stand under?
Cruising on the Rhine is a peaceful, scenic tour. I may have been most excited that I could enjoy German wine while floating down the river. One of my friends took a picture of me that sums up how I felt.
Here you see one of the pamphlets that Herr Jung shared with us. A book I must read...At this point in my trip I'm beginning to think about the connections I have made in such a short time. I probably would not have met Herr Jung if I was not on this trip, and what a tragedy that would have been.
To save money and space on this trip, I mostly purchased posters for souvenirs. Two of my favorite posters from the trip came from this little store. Each night I look at my print of the 700 year old hotel and remember my time there. I can almost hear the trains passing.